THREE STATE RIDE: TN, VA, AND KY. IT'S "THE BREAKS"

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MY ROUTE: TENNESSEE, VIRGINIA, KENTUCKY AND BACK INTO VIRGINIA AND HOME

I awoke without much of a clue as to where I was riding to. Nor did I have much "GIDDY-UP-GO". A few weeks ago, I read with interest the destination of a group of riders I like to follow and ride with, (Southern Cruisers: Club #77). They took US-23 from Weber City VA. into a town in Kentucky. I wanted to follow that route as well; although I knew darn well I wouldn't be able to go the entire way to the town they rode to. Instead, I told myself I would ride north on US-23 until 1 PM: at which time I should find another route back home. I like to be home by 4 or 5 PM to fix dinner for my family.

I rode out of Johnson City TN. on I-26 to Weber City VA. where I-26 ends and the road becomes US-23. I stopped at a gas station with 32 miles on my gas tank: not to fuel up, but rather to assess the oil spew problem I had noticed. I just cleaned the bike and I figured I would be able to detect where the oil was coming from. I had my suspensions. Common sense tells me it can't be from the crankcase breathers; way too much oil collecting at the base of the lifter blocks and not enough oil soaked road grime collecting around the carb.



OIL COLLECTION" BASE OF LIFTER BLOCKS



Now with the right side of the engine and cases clean, I figured I'd be able to see what's going on. The oil is coming from the rear push-rod seal at the bottom. Sucks. Just this spring they were in there and these seals are new...remember when they replaced the rollers? I do. Slow burn, cuz I know the shop won't recognize their culpability in this mess. I decide to keep an eye on the oil level and continue the ride. I've ridden that bike with the lifters bleeding so badly by the time I got from Dothan AL. to Vero Beach, FL. I had oil spray from my shoulders to my ankles. I kept the T-shirt as a reminder.  I did have to put 1/3 of a quart in before the ride was over.

My 1st sightseeing stop was at Benge's Gap in Virginia, very close to the Kentucky state line. The gap was formed by an ancient creek, flowing southward, which cut through the land being pushed up to form the mountains. The gap was used by Native Americans and migrating animal herds. Later, when the white men came it was a highly contested area that was eventually named by the whites after a Native American chief who fought diligently to defend it.



Overlook at Benge's Gap in VA.



Overlooking Benge's Gap

My next stop was in Norton VA. I needed a quart of oil. It's a quaint town, but the most interesting object for my camera I came across was the Cocoa Cola sign and clock.



Old Coke sign and Clock Norton VA.

I think the next little town I passed through was Jenkins. Its downtown was busy and very vibrant. I think they once heavily depended on coal, perhaps they still do.  I saw homes that reminded me of the "company store" homes I've seen in coal towns all across West Virginia.



Clock at Downtown Jenkins

In Jenkins, I realize the time is almost 1 PM. It's time to figure out what to do. I look at the map and realize I'm in Kentucky. As I scan about for possible roads of intrest, I find I'm very near The Breaks State Park in VA. I've wanted to see this area for a couple of years. No time like the present. I map my way to Breaks, Va. It's a good day and a better ride. Thoroughly enjoyed everything about the ride so far. I have stopped at a few places along the way to The Breaks, but when I saw this sign I was relieved. I was hungry as hell. Here I got good food at reasonable prices. You will too.



Snack Shack

Leaving the Snack Shack, I scared the piss outta myself. I checked the roadway for oncoming traffic...I checked it three times as I always do. When I started to pull onto the road to join the lane opposite of the place I was sitting at, I discovered I was riding out into oncoming traffic. I did the only thing I could. I corrected my steering to put me riding the outside of the lane...riding in the same lane as the oncoming car (I was facing him). But I at least was safe, he had room to swerve from my stupidity and I could move onto the berm if need be. All was good. He adjusted and didn't kill me...how sweet.

I arrived in good order at a overlook of the gorge. It's wonderful. You must stop here!





Leaving the overlook, I feel something that reminds me of my rear wheel being tugged at or bouncing over something. I'm wondering for a bit what the hell it was. I decided I must of rolled over wild life. It happened once more as I was turning into The Breaks State Park in VA. This time, I was thinking it felt like a tug. I then got a mental picture of one of the leather thongs I use to tie my bags on. I remember the rear set looked a bit loose at my last stop. I neglected to attend to the knots. When I got off to pay the attendant at the park entrance, I knew what it was. I felt very lucky for the second time that day. Man, any more stupidity will surely kill me...right? Whew.

I didn't have time to fully explore the huge park. I only stopped at one easily accessible overlook and I'm telling you: You MUST plan a full day there. If you're a hiker...well what's to say? So many great trails leading down to the gorge. There is camping or cabins and the park also offers wonderful lodging accommodations. There is horseback riding, a swimming pool and so much more! Be sure to come prepared for a weekend of fun!



State Line Overlook at The Breaks



A view of the route in from KY.



Looking over the gorge to the mountains beyond

After leaving the park, I headed for a little town on the map called Haysi. This is a very small town whose downtown deserves more than just rolling through. But that's all the time I had... I did stop to photograph this mural covering the side of the local food market.



Mural in Haysi Va.

Oh, I found myself on a road that I wasn't supposed to be on. As I rolled down it, directly in front of me about 50 feet...a full grown deer jumps out of the bushes on my left: bounding to the other side and up an embankment to the woods. He was handsome. Lucky again.

I'm about 90 minutes from home, I stopped to capture this old abandoned house. When I see these huge homes, I wonder how in the world they managed to heat a home like this. YIKES... I know there was some mighty cold spots in that house in winter.



I'm almost home now. I'm riding East toward home on I-26 when I notice my shadow is out racing me home.



That's it girls and boys. I'm home...and this is what I got... YOU LIKE?

Things that make you go Hmmmmmm

Today I saw this.


My mind typically goes straight to the gutter when ever allowed to do so.
So I says to myself, "Self, That logo looks more like an E.D. with a little boner than a D.E. doesn't it? And doesn't ED stand for erectile dysfunction anyway? Why yes. Yes it does."


I wonder if they created this logo before Viagra and all of their commercials gained popularity and the term E.D. became a common house hold word.

Things that make you go "HMMMMM".
That's a mouthful!

Destination: SMOKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK IN TENNESSEE

Destination: SMOKY MOUNTAIN NATIONAL PARK IN TENNESSEE
By Marilyn Elmore Bragg



The Great Smoky Mountains State Park is a destination for many visitors of the Gatlinburg and Pigeon Forge tourist area. From my front door to the park plus a ride down Little River Road and back home put 276 miles on the "LIL GIRL": my 1993 Anniversary Edition XL Sportster.

I did my homework for this ride. I wanted a mountain ride that would include some wildlife, curves, history and solitude. I got most of what I was looking for except for the solitude. Cades Cove 11 mile Loop Road appears to be a favorite destination for locals and travelers alike. I knew this from my studies so I elected to be up and out of the house by 5:30 AM. According to the maps this ride would be slightly less than three hours. I guess it would be except I was riding though fog until I came to the Douglas Dam area.


IMAGE CAPTION: Douglas Dam and Lake, near Pigeon Forge TN.

My gloved hand was my windshield wiper. The extended pointing finger of my left hand moving left to right over the lenses of my riding glasses, back and forth: wiping the mist from my sight only to be blurred seconds after the pass of my "blade".

This slowed my passage. Well the fog and the fact I decided to take a slightly deviated tour from the one planned for me by Google Maps. I never was good at taking directions. NEVER.


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My route from Johnson City to Cades Cove and back.


IMAGE CAPTION: ALMOST THERE

This park is very large. Once through the gates the visitor will ride through several miles of beautiful, mountain country rich with history. You will ride with a small river running beside the road for your visual and auditory enjoyment. The mountains are covered in Mountain Laurel. This ride would be beautiful in June when these plants bloom, that's certain.

The road is not tight with twisties nor is it fast. The speed limit inside the park is limited from 25 MPH to 35 MPH. That's OK. I'm not in a hurry. I'm a sightseeing fool. I arrive at the ranger's station just before the Motor Tour of the Loop Road. Here you can pick up books and maps of the area...for a fee of course.

It was 10 AM, much later than I planned to arrive. The cars were starting to roll in. I was disappointed but what to do? Get on the bike and do what you came to do. Ride the Loop Road. The 1st 2/3 of the road was unencumbered by traffic, but at each stop to photograph or tour the site, I fell further behind the new arrivals of stinking four wheelers...ah well, life is a trip. Just get on with your business and don't fret the small stuff.

I stopped to photograph churches of the early 19th century, with the graves of the people who lived on these lands before the Government was able to save it from the timber companies.


PHOTO CAPTION: Early 19th century church and yard


PHOTO CAPTION: INSIDE THE PRIMITIVE BAPTIST CHURCH OF CADES COVE

As I ride the Loop Road, I realize this is a flat "valley" surrounded by mountain walls. To the left of me as I ride is this table of land full of a large variety of wildlife, living side by side with man's tamed beast of burden, the magnificent horse.


IMAGE CAPTION: HORSES GRAZING: CADES COVE

On the loop as I was driving I stopped to watch a group of Wild Turkey as they pecked and poked their way across the fields to my left.


IMAGE CAPTION: WILD TURKEYS

I saw a black bear as he ambled across the road ahead of me. I couldn't capture his image though...so sad for that fact.

To my right is a forest whose floor near the roadway is carpeted with Black Eyed Susans and other wild flowers.


IMAGE CAPTION: EDGE OF FOREST CARPETED WITH BLACK EYED SUSANS


IMAGE CAPTION: THE FOREST IS COVERED IN BRIGHT COLORFUL FLOWERS

I know why this area is such a draw. I have proof taken from my own eye. I’ve captured for you, my readers to behold. This is just a token of the beauty these old mountains provide. OUr mountain ranges in the east. (including the Great Smokys)
are the oldest mountain ranges in the United States. This is why we have trees covering the entire mountains. The canopy of green is hiding the shrunken state of the old men standing with bearded faces as well as their knobby heads covered with the same greenery as their faces. The mountains have faced eons of weather and storms, shrinking the old men down until they are no longer the sharp hardened young visages like the Grand Tetons in the west.


IMAGE CAPTION: AN UPWARD GAZE BEYOND THE COVE


IMAGE CAPTION: MAN IN THE MIRROR, GOD AHEAD

Moving on, I've come to the "SETTLEMENT". Here is the original mill for the area, as well as a farm house that has been moved to help represent the settlement. The house is a native of the Cove, just not from this particular site. I was impressed with the observance the Park personal took to give us the feel of a true settlement.


IMAGE CAPTION: CADES COVE

This mill is a working mill, here are the gear works...fascinating to me. How about YOU?


IMAGE CAPTION: LARGE WHEEL GEAR CONNECTED TO WATER WHEEL TURNS GRINDING STONES

Here is a shot of a typical styled mountain barn behind the home at the settlement. Also shown is the beautiful grounds. I doubt it had grass like this back in the day, but it sure makes for a beautiful shot.


IMAGE CAPTION: BARN ON THE GROUNDS OF THE SETTLEMENT

I liked this old buckboard. An extreme example of "modern" transport in the mountain regions. Its age showing: just like the old man Mountains this piece resides in.


IMAGE CAPTION: OLD BUCKBOARD WAGON


IMAGE CAPTION: SHOVED IN A BARN, FOREVER WAITING

Now I've noticed the crowds are building. I needed to get out of the park. It was a long slow torturous crawl out of the park from here; the engine was heating up between my legs. Cars were stopping in the roadway to gawk rather than pulling off to the side. It was like pissing in the wind. Be sure to not fool around on your way to Cades Cove. Be there early before the crowds build up.

I'm off the Loop Road and heading back the way I came. On this trip back, I ride past the road I came in on and ride the Little River Road. A must ride for you. It will help you to decompress after the loop. The Little River runs beside most of the winding and twisting road with stone outcroppings to your right and the Little River rushing over boulders and strewn rock...ah it's heaven all over again.

I enjoyed my trip through the Park. If you go on a weekday...avoid weekends and go early enough in the morning, you too will enjoy your ride through the park!

Tattoo Birthday for my "SON" David Harley

Ever heard the old adage, Like Father Like Son? Well this one fits the bill.
My Son, David Harley (Yes, I really named him that.) has wanted a tattoo(s) since he was about 8 years old. He knew that waiting until he turned 18 was the only way it was going to happen. His time finally came. The session was not on his birthday, due to other commitments , but shortly afterward. I set up a session with a tattoo artist I've used in the past and have been very happy with. Neil Reitan from Tattoo Asylum hooked us up for a two person session back to back, or should I say shoulder to arm. We got a Father Son, Harley tattoo for his 18th birthday. This is something I'll remember for the rest of my life. I think he will too.

By the tattoo virgins choice, I went first.
Here was my sit in .




Best for last, what this is really all about...
My Son's birthday present, and first tattoo.
His namesake fulfilled in ink forever.






David, B.T.W. Your tattoo turned out sick!
It was really cool being a part of this with you.
It was a day I'll remember forever.
Happy Birthday Kiddo!

UNICOI COUNTY HERITAGE MUSEUM: A TREASURE OF NORTH EAST TENNESSEE

By Marilyn Elmore-Bragg
Along State Road 107, on the grounds of the National Fishery in Erwin Tennessee is the Unicoi County Heritage Museum. On a very hot day late in July, I decided to stop to tour the museum. The sign announcing the location of the museum is quite insignificant in comparison to the fishery sign. I recommend when looking for 527 Federal Hatchery Road; you look for this sign first.


IMAGE CAPTION: ERWIN NATIONAL FISH HATCHERY

As you turn onto the grounds of the hatchery; you will spy the main building where the offices and holding tanks used to collect the eggs from the trout raised here. The driveway runs to the left of this building and it’s here you want to be as you continue down the asphalt paved road; past the speed bumps and the home of the fisheries Superintendent. Continue driving to the circle driveway of the large Victorian sized home on the perfectly manicured grounds of the fishery.


IMAGE CAPTION: ORIGINAL HOME OF ALL SUPERINTENDENTS FROM 1905 TO 1982

The home began its life on August 18, 1894 when Congress passed legislation to fund the establishment of a national fishery in Erwin, TN. The fishery was built on $12,000.00. Of this allotment, the contractor (G.W.N. BROWN) used $4,454.50 to build this stately 52’ x 56’, two story, 10 room home.

To enter the home, you will cross the broad wraparound porch which acts as the threshold to the beautiful glass etched entry doors. Opening those doors will place you in an elegant foyer which is dressed in fine dark woods, historical documents framed on the wall, fine antique furniture of the period and a staircase leading to the second floor. It is a thoughtful and handsome display of rich textures and history.

On your right is the Superintendents office. Here you will find Martha S. Erwin, Curator of the museum. Martha has been working at the museum for over 20 years in one capacity or another. She is a wealth of knowledge and information on the history of the town of Erwin. I asked if her family name was connected to how Erwin was named or its founders. Martha laughed heartily and told me no. ( It was at this point Martha asked for a $2.00 donation before I started our tour the museum. It IS a donation, and I do hope you help support this wonderful little museum with your gift of money.)


IMAGE CAPTION: A SIDE VIEW OF HOUSE AND VERANDA

I later learned the town of Erwin received its name from an error on the behalf of the United States Post Office. After a long secession of names, the towns’ fathers voted on December 5th 1879, to change the name to Ervin. Ervin was the name of the man who donated the land the town was built upon. Due to a typo from the US Postal Service: the town was known to the locals as ‘ERVIN’ and to the post office as ‘ERWIN’, causing some confusion until the misspelling won the battle, finding its place on state and federal maps as ‘ERWIN’.

Across the hall from the Superintendent’s office is the parlor. Martha has furnished this room with period furniture, toys, and textiles. This room also proudly claims a beautiful fireplace, two pocket doors made with a light golden wood (I’m sorry; I don’t know the true nature of that beautiful wood.) The front of the room boasts a bay window extending out into the wrap around veranda. This allows a view of the veranda as well as the wooded hill beyond the manicured grounds of the fishery.



IMAGE CAPTION: ORNATE FIREPLACE LOCATED IN THE SUPERINTENDENTS OFFICE



IMAGE CAPTION: PARLOR WITH POCKET DOORS AND FIREPLACE



IMAGE CAPTION: BAY WINDOWS IN PARLOR

Walking though those beautiful pocket doors, you’ll find yourself in what is known as the “Community Room”, where you will find several pieces of period furniture, many local arts and crafts for sale as well as books, cards and collectibles. All proceeds benefit the museum.



IMAGE CAPTION: SMALL CORNER OF THE "COMMUNITY ROOM"

Now you will find yourself across the hall from a very elegant dining room. This room is known as the “Blue Ridge Pottery Room”. In this room, you will find the largest collection of Blue Ridge Pottery. Blue Ridge Pottery was a pottery started in Erwin in 1916 by the Clinchfield Railroad. “WHAT?”, you ask? Me too,that is until I learned the railroad was looking to diversify. Pottery was the rage in the early part of the 20th century and the owners of the Ohio, Clinchfield and North Carolina Railroads wanted in. They chose to build their pottery in Erwin because of the proximity of Erwin’ to the raw materials used in pottery as well as it’s availability to the rail line. With just 300 residents, the pottery became a boom to the area. Over the years the pottery was known by many names and its popularity grew due to its unique hand painted designs. Southern Potteries (the name they took on in 1920) closed their doors in 1967. Leaving to history and to collectors a large and varied compilation of over five thousand design patterns.


IMAGE CAPTION: BLUE RIDGE POTTERY ROOM (FORMAL DINING ROOM OF THE HOUSE

Once more I am walking toward the rear of the home. I walk past the bathroom built with the house. I walk past a rear set of stairs to the second floor and into the huge kitchen area. Martha was able to furnish this kitchen with the beautiful “REGAL ACORN” cast iron wood burning stove.


IMAGE CAPTION: REGAL ACORN COOK STOVE


IMAGE CAPTION: ANTIQUE BAKERS CABINET WITH ANTIQUE TOOLS


IMAGE CAPTION: KITCHEN IN THE HERITAGE MUSEUM


IMAGE CAPTION: CLOTHES WASHING BUCKET AND ICE KEEPER

Off to the right of the kitchen lies a room unto it's self. This is a bright, sunny room with many windows lending to the appearance of the room as an add on. Not original to the house. The bay windows appear modern compared to the other windows in the home. The room is known as "THE WILDLIFE ROOM". Here you will find prime taxidermy examples of the wild life you would find here in Unicoi county. From bears to turkey, partridge, deer and foxes, this room is a plethora of skins, photos and memorabilia of the local wild life.


IMAGE CAPTION: WILD LIFE ROOM


IMAGE CAPTION: A BEAUTIFUL BLACK BEAR

Leaving the "WILD LIFE ROOM" by the same doorway I entered, I notice a small breezeway type room leading from the kitchen to the formal dining room. I believe in the days this home was built, it was designed to be the china room. This is where all the dinner ware for the dining room was stored. Today it holds the Museum's small but beautiful collection of "Cash Pottery" items.

Back out into the hallway, you will make your way up the back stairs to the second level of the home. It's a dark stairway leaving you to realize these stairs were meant only for the occupants of the home, not guests. As you come to rest on the second floor you will naturally look to your left and right observing your surroundings. To my right, I noticed a room full of military memorabilia. This room named, "HISTORY AND WAR ROOM" is sponsored by the Unicoi County Historical Society. In this room I saw a display of a Civil War uniform, as well as military uniforms from other historic war periods of our country. I also discovered documents, photographs and historic memorabilia from the Civil War to the present day war in the Middle East.


IMAGE CAPTION: CIVIL WAR MEMORABILIA


IMAGE CAPTION: WORLD WAR II TRIBUTE

The War Room was my favorite room of the house. I can spend an hour in that room to examine and gawk at all the history and information there.

I turn to leave the room and found myself looking forward into the hallway. I was scrutinizing the documents framed on the walls, as well as the wonderful spinning wheel located at the front of the hallway near the window lighting the way with bright sunlight.


IMAGE CAPTION: WINDOW LIGHTING 2ND FLOOR HALL WITH SPINNING WHEEL


IMAGE CAPTION: 2ND FLOOR VIEW FRONT TO BACK

The rest of the second floor is an unexpected delight. Here the friends of the museum removed the wall separating two bedrooms. They also removed a portion of the walls that separate the rooms from the hallway, leaving a knee wall. From the top of the knee wall to the ceiling they installed plexi-glass to protect the exhibits from the public. They cleverly designed this area to be a representation of the business' one could find on "MAIN STREET".


IMAGE CAPTION: THE BARBER DOUBLED AS THE DENTIST


IMAGE CAPTION: APOTHECARY AND SODA SHOP

The museum has also built a wood sidewalk to help duplicate the "Main Street" feeling of this group of exhibits. Do not imagine by any means, the photos I've displayed are the end of this wonderful Main Street! There is the General Store, the Post Office, a birthing room, and an accounting office. There is so much to see here in this unusual way to exhibit period business's.

On the 2nd floor is the Daughters of the American Revolution Room, as well as a bedroom furnished beautifully in the fashion of late 19th century.

Don't forget to climb the stairs to more history in the attic! This entire house is a museum piece. You will be pleased with the way the documents and historic pieces are displayed. It's not a hodge podge of unrelated displays. You begin to visualize the lives of the people who built this area of North East Tennessee.

I'll leave you with a peek of what you will find in the attic of this beautiful home/museum.


IMAGE CAPTION: A SMALL SAMPLE OF ATTIC DISPLAY